Catania and Santa Lucia

It's been ages since our last posting and much has happened - nothing earth shattering - just some traveling, lots of eating and seeing some incredible sights.  Driving through Sicily (at least the eastern coast and inland) has been an eye opener. We are convinced that Sicily must be the breadbasket of Italy. Albert just told me that it truly is. So I guess I'm terrifically observant and somewhat behind on facts.There are mile upon mile of citrus groves (dripping with varieties of oranges and lemons), olive trees, vineyards (rather bare right now) and artichokes.  Winter must be perfect weather for growing artichokes. They are everywhere - in the fields and on fruit and vegetables vendor trucks on just about every street in every town we've driven through.

Just some lemons

We also trained to Catania on the 10:25 am which goes all the way to Rome so had a very comfortable sleeper car. We walked from the Catania train station to the Duomo (cathedral). It was as windy as all get out. Temperature was warm but we, or rather me, just about got blown back to the train station. After a few of our usual stops asking for directions, we made it to the big street near the Duomo where everyone shops in Catania. We were on a mission to find a sweater for Albert.  It's been a search - he may be half Italian but his size is definitely not Italian - he's just too tall and too broad. After much looking we landed on the big department store in Sicily and 'Dio Mio' we found a sweater that was perfect. So with sweater in hand, we moved on to the Duomo and naturally it was closed by the time we arrived.  Everything closes at 1 p.m. and if it's a store, will open up around 4:30.  However, churches and museums are a different story - once closed, they stay closed until domani. Nevertheless, the outside of the cathedral was spectacular enough.  We plan to come back on a later visit on our way to Taormina.

 

Duomo (Cathedral) Catania

The highlight of our day in Catania was a wonderful restaurant we stumbled upon while searching madly to find one that was recommended in the Michelin guide. We never found that one, but were pretty happy we didn't. The restaurant we did find is on the tiniest cobblestone street. It's called Trattoria Il Mare on Via San Michele, 7, and if you're ever in Catania, you must go there. We picked our meal from a display case loaded with all kinds of sea food. I had the pesce mista (a fabulous mixture of fried fish, shrimp, squid), and Albert had red snapper cooked in a Sicilian sauce. Oh and we can't forget the dessert.  Can't remember what it's called but it's Sicilian and made with ricotta (of course) and was so moist and downright delicious. We figure this was the best meal we've had in Sicily and we happened upon this little treasure purely by accident. You have to love accidents!!!!  We will be back for sure.

 

What kind of fish would you like?

 

Or is this more to your liking?

 

 

Fabio deboning Albert's fish

 

Sicilian fish with capers, olives, tomatoes

 

The day after we got back was spent searching for the painting of Santa Lucia by Caravaggio. This little adventure has now turned into a mystery tour. We went to where the guides say the painting is housed. Not so. We've checked websites, talked to people and have yet to determine the location of Santa Lucia. We haven't given up though. We will find her. In the meantime we spent a lovely afternoon at the museum Galleria Regionale di Palazzo Bellamy which is dedicated to Sicilian art and artifacts and Byzantine paintings. This is where the Entombent of St. Lucy by Caravaggio is supposed to be, but is definitely not.