Road Trip Sicily Continued

Feb 11

Scala Dei Turchi
When we left Agrigento, we were advised that a stop at Scala dei Turchi is a must. This impressive and unusual formation was created by the action of the sea waves on the white rock cliff.  The result is a gently sloping set of stairs, hence the name Stairs of the Turks. 

 

Cattolica Eraclea

Before our next stop in Selinunte, we made our way to Cattolica Eraclea. This is the home town of a friend of ours in Ottawa and we promised to stop by to look up some relatives. By instinct we looked for the town church. We figured best way to find people in a small Italian town is to go straight to the church. Quite by sheer luck, we found the Parrocchia B.M.V. Della Mercede right at the top of the hill in the middle of town.  We saw a gentleman going into the church and followed him in. This is how we met Lorenzo Lomea, sacristan and, “Cavalier di Mercede” (Knight of the Madonna of Mercede).  With lots of facial and hand expressions, we explained to Signore Lomea why we were visiting Cattolica.  “We are looking for family members of a dear friend in Ottawa.”  We also mentioned the names of the family.  He was familiar with the name but did not have an address and pointed down the street where we might look for the family name on the door-fronts along that street.  Before saying goodbye we took a photo with Lorenzo in front of the church to show our friend back home. 

 

 

We looked for the family residence, however, without success so decided to have lunch in a park we found before leaving for Selinunte.  In the center of the park there was a shrine dedicated to Padre Pio, now beatified.  Under his statue was written the following quotation: “La Fede è l’unico punto d’appoggio nel mare tempestoso della vita." 

While we were eating and talking about religion two older gentlemen strolled into the park. It was quite clear that they were very curious about us. So, we introduced ourselves and explained why we were in Cattolica. They introduced themselves as Antonino and Salvatore. The more gregarious of the two, Antonino, responded with delight. He said that he knew the family. Another picture was in order. Salvatore declined to have his photo taken. Antonino, on the other hand was all for it. He became more and more exuberant as we got to know one another. He seemed genuinely happy to have met us.  He kept holding our hands and grinning from ear to ear! What a lovely, sweet soul he was. 

 

It's not an illusion.  I really am taller than Antonino!!

 

We explained that we were on our way to Selinunte and that we wanted to reach there before dark. They recommended the best way for us to leave town and Atonino kept insisting that we drive “piano” (slowly) and not like the other crazy drivers.  That was our time in Cattolica. 

The drive through the centre of Sicily from Cattolica to Selinunte takes your through mile upon mile of agricultural land. The rolling hills at this time of year seem to be covered in green velvet. This is beautiful countryside and you can see that the soil is extremely rich and productive.  We didn’t even try to take pictures. They never do the real thing justice.

Feb 12-13
Selinunte

Stayed at a lovely B&B, Terazzo di Venere, in Selinunte and slept in the fanciest bedroom. 

 

This was really our bed!! 

The archaeological park was steps from the B&B, so we walked over to tour the park and its temples – each in various stages of repair or still in its destructed state. 

 

 

This picture gives you an idea of how big the columns were on one of the temples. I am 5 feet tall and this column's radius is about double my height.

There are also massive excavations of the ancient town sitting at the top of the hill. This site overlooks the sea and it’s easy to understand why it was continuously inhabited until its final abandonment.

Acropolis at Selinunte

We had 2 fabulous meals at the local restaurant “Boomerang”. In addition to great meals we were serenaded nightly by wonderful singing. At the end of the first night, we were promised fresh fish on the following evening. And that’s exactly what we had. Our freshly caught fish meal included plate upon plate of fried cod, anchovies, mullet, grilled squid, mussels, followed by a salad of blood oranges and radicchio, all topped off by lots of wine. The meal ended with cannoli and the local dessert wine made with almonds – DELICIOUS!!  Albert and I finished the night by having one dance before we left the restaurant. Nice way to end our stay in Selinunte. 

Giovanni’s (our B&B host)  Mom took us to visit her niece’s ceramic shop. Of course we bought something.  We were also gifted with a bag full of the hugest lemons. However, according to Albert they were not as big as his Grandfather’s lemons grown in New London, CT.  Lemons abound in Sicily and they are strangely delicious, just like everything else here.

Feb 14-15
Poggioreale

Marco, our landlord, and Giovanni, our B&B host, recommended visiting the mysterious and deserted ghost town of Poggioreale.  This 17^th century town was extensively damaged by an earthquake in 1968 and abandoned by the townspeople who just picked up, moved downhill and built a new town.  The old town is condemned and entrance is not permitted, so we snuck around and found a way in. As I walked into the centre of the town, I looked up at what might have been steps of the town church. At the top of the hill overlooking the church remains, I saw a woman dressed entirely in black who was looking down at me. Not exactly what I expected so I hurried back to Albert and the car – too eerie for me.

Abandoned Poggioreale

 

Entrance to destroyed home in Poggioreale

Trapani

After leaving Poggioreale, we made a quick stop in Trapani and drove along the ocean front, stopped for pizza and sandwiches before continuing on to Palermo. We had to give up visiting Erice so we could get into Palermo before dark.  It’s a good thing too. Finding our B&B in the centre of the old town was quite tricky even with GPS Lucia’s help.

Palermo
On our first morning in Palermo, we visited the Orto Botanico (botanical garden). Here’s a picture of a giant bougainvilla.  It’s the same one I have at home, only mine is miniscule compared to this one, so we had to take a picture.

 

Bougainvilla at Orto Botanica - Palermo

We stayed in the best B&B, Hotel Harmony on Via Lungarini, and recommend it if you ever get to Palermo. Giuseppe was the finest host and his favourite line was “have some coffee, have some wine, have some more it’s free, all free.”  What a hospitable and generous host. 

We managed to visit the cathedral for a few minutes.

Duomo Palermo

 

It was Sunday and everything closes at 1, museums, churches, etc., so we decided to eat instead. Seems to be our fallback when there’s nothing else to do. We found a wonderful restaurant and had a great meal. We saw some tempting veggies sitting on a side table and mistakenly thought our waiter told us to help ourselves – so we did. I thought that was the vegetable dish I ordered but realized our mistake when a plateful of other vegetables arrived. Anyway, we were blissfully ignorant and all the happier for it – the potatoes, peppers and spinach frittata were lip smacking good. Of course, we had to pay extra for our mistake and it was well worth it. I am notoriously not fond of peppers and these were outstanding!!

Feb 16
Montréal
This town sits on top of a very steep hill overlooking the city of Palermo.  It is home to an incredible Norman cathedral and Benedictine abbey built in the 12^th century. The interior of the cathedral literally glitters with gold mosaics created by Sicilian and Byzantine artists.

 

Duomo Monreale

Duomo Monreale - close up of Christ above the central altar - lots of gold!!!!

We strolled through the halls of the cloister that Benedictine monks once walked in prayer and meditation. Took a picture of Albert and reminded him that he could have been one of the Benedictines praying and meditating if he had stayed in the monastery. Luckily for me, he didn’t.

 

Albert at Benedictine Monastery in Monreale

 

Albert at the Benedictine Monastery in Monreale

Our drive down the hill from Monreale to Palermo was the most gut wrenching we’ve yet experienced in Sicily.  Sicilian drivers have no mercy. They drive at incredible speeds up roads that were never intended for more than one vehicle.  Our adrenaline levels were at an all time high by the time we reached safety and the bottom of the hill.  There was one point on our way down where a driver rolled down his window and pulled in his side view mirrors and then ours in hopes to squeeze by us, but no go. He ended up backing up. A prime example of the lengths people here will go through to get  by.